Friday 14 June 2013

Costa Rica and Nicaragua

We weren´t sure what to do or where to go this morning. The beauty of having only a backpack to move around with. Terry and I resumed our roles as packer and planner and set out on a mission to Maltagalpa..the chocolate centre of the world or so they proclaim. High in the mountains of the Northern Region of Nicaragua, our ´chicken´ bus rolled out of the bus station only to stop 30 seconds later to pick up more passengers. People piled on the bus and market sellers trying to flog all kinds of things from herbal medicines to garlic whilst you sit and concerntrate on keeping steady on the ride. We got a seat and you are lucky if you don´t have to stand for the journey. 

We arrived into the town with no idea where to go and yet again what to do. We had only decided that we must go and see where they make chocolate here and how they do it. After checking out two hostels, we travelled back in time to 2007 where we were always out for the bargain and would walk around for 30 minutes just to find a room that was maybe a dollar less than the one before. We did this today, 5 years later, we choose a room just because it was $4 less than a much nicer room. I sat on the bed in this $4 less room and bought myself back to 2012 and realised what a mistake I had made, the room was pretty grim. Oh well, one short night here and we are off to the airport hotel tomorrow with its own pool and spa. Some luxury to end a mixed trip. 


So the trip..6 days in the beautiful Costa Rica and the rest of the trip, 9 days in Nicaragua. After having travelled so much and seen so many different countries and cultures, we were unsure of how we would travel here in Central America. So many similarities to South America although for us diluted by it´s desire to 'Americanise'. 


So it all began in San Jose, after two pants flights with American Airlines. Can you believe in 2012 that there are long distance flights with no TV´s or at a minimum the ability to select your own film..call yourself American lol. That airline sucked! We reached a really lovely hostel and spent the night recovering from our no film 15 hour trauma. First night plans in motion and we booked to go to the remote place of Tortuguero. Tortuguero is a national park located in the north east of Costa Rica on the Caribbean Sea. It is very well known for turtle nesting and it´s Amazonian like rainforest. 


It was a 3 hour mini bus journey passed banana plantations to the river, where we jumped in a boat to travel 2 hours to our jungle lodge, Rana Roja. That evening, we walked the beach to see if we could find any turtle hatchings and we were in luck. We saw 3 turtles hatch on the beach and travel into the ocean as fast as their little arms and legs would let them. One of the most amazing experiences to date. 



Dinner that night was less to be desired, some random chickpea and meat dish was served, so for Tel and I, I think we ate rice. It was 15th December so I asked the waiters to surprise Terry with a cake and they all sang happy birthday in spanish! The cake was the best part of the meal. We slept in a lodge cabin. My favourite sleeps are to the sound of the rainforest. We woke up every two hours or so and had the joy of falling back to sleep again to the music of the jungle. We have an app for this on the ipad but it no way compares to the real thing. 



After journeying through the canals of Tortuguero, we saw all kinds of different monkeys and birds, a crocodile and caiman and then we made our journey back to land. Three hours later, we were in Arenal and it was Terry´s actual birthday. Like a devoted wife and romantic, I had of course planned a birthday surprise for him. We had booked to stay in this cabin tent. When we opened the tent, it was full of balloons, a beautiful chocolate cake, rose petals and a wicked pinata! The hostel did an amazing job for me and he was so surprised! We spent the evening celebrating and partying with the pinata. Hilarious to witness Terry blindfolded attempting the hit a moving bird. 

It must have been one of Terry´s best birthday presents when he awoke to a huge perfectly cone shaped active volcano. A pretty spectacular sight, only a few years ago did it actually stop spuing lava. He was loving it. We had heard so much about Canopying in the MonteVerde cloud forest so jumped in a so called 'jeep' to hitch a ride across a lake to the cloud forest. 

Canopying was great. Superman accross 1km rope above the forest, pretty intense stuff. Probably the highlight of Costa Rica although slightly painful at times. After all of the hype and addreline we decided that we mustn't leave Costa Rica without seeing the ocean and spending time of the beach. We headed to a beach, recommended by our hostel owner, called Brasilito. We were not disappointed. 


On arrival at Cochal Beach (next door to Brasilto), we walked for about 5 minutes down the stretch of sand to the clear turquoise waters of Brasilto. The sand was white and trees emerald green. I walked into the ocean for a swim and was greeted with a majestic ray on its way into the deep. It was an incredible experience.


After a few days of sunning ourselves on the beach, we crossed the notorious border into Nicaragua. Referred to as one of the most difficult border crossings in Central America, we were wished good luck from the bus driver as we reached our immigration desk. To our surprise it was easy, a few forms and 10 dollars each and we were in!


We connected with a few other random travellers, jumped into a taxi and headed to the Isla de Ometepe, an island created and looked over by two huge volcanoes, Concepcion and Madreas. We found a hostel and rested our backs in a hammock. 


The weather was very interchangable here. Hot, then cold, breezy and shady. We both signed up to climb Concepcion the highest volcano on the island and when 5am came around the next morning, I soon realised I had made a mistake. I said my apologies and saw Terry off on his way (mad at me for wasting the money booking the trip up there), however I always love it when we comes back shattered telling me that he was glad I didn't go as it would have been too hard for me! Phew, I was off the hook!


Christmas soon came around and we found ourselves travelling from the lively and colourful Granda to the Laguna de Apoyo, a hotel I had booked for my birthday and Christmas. We arrived to what looked like paradise. a beautiful lake and apartment right on the lake front with its own pool. However, and big however, the apartment was not very clean as there was a party the night before and we found slly string everywhere, goodness knows what was in the pool! 


We stayed for a night waiting to complain to the owner that never actually arrived! My birthday came and we left the lake, jumped in a taxi and drove up to Leon. So it was my birthday and all I wanted for a nice hotel with a pool and some relaxation. Eventually we found it. 




And there we have it. From a quiet Leon and Christmas day to where I sit today. A great trip with some great memories.